Refinishing Furniture: Stripping Furniture

Last week I started a series on Refinishing Furniture. We talked about assessing your furniture, determining what you wanted to do, deciding on stain and more. In this post we are going to discuss stripping your furniture and how to do it efficiently and effective.

Note: This advice is meant for a basic piece of furniture, it is not meant as a guide for antique or valuable furniture. I am taking this approach because most of the questions I get are from people who have found fun pieces of furniture from garage sales or thrift store. This furniture is not worth putting in 20 hours or spending $1000 dollars on. This guide is mean to turn these projects into an easy day or even afternoon project.

Stripping Your Furniture

The first thing you will need to do is to get your materials.

You Will Need:

  • A can of stripper from your local hardware store.
  • A pair of neoprene gloves. Stripper is nasty and will burn you if you do not wear these.
  • A plastic scrapper.
  • A touch scrubbing brush.
  • Sanding paper and sponges.
  • Green scrubbing pads

Choosing a stripper is a tough choice. First, you can choose the harsh strippers, these work but will burn your skin and get you high if you don’t have good ventilation. These tend to take 15 -45 minutes to do their jobs. The second kind are natural strippers. This kind of work but can take hours (like up to 24 hours!) but are better on you and the environment. Personally I use the harsh chemical strippers because they do their job and they do it quick. I make sure to wear neoprene gloves, long sleeves and goggles (you DO NOT want any of this in your eyes).

Applying The Stripper

The trick to getting stripper to strip well is to brush on a thick coat of stripper onto the area you plan to strip. Do not brush it around, this will dry it out and cause it to lose its effectiveness. Let it sit for roughly 10-15 minutes. You should start to see the finish bubble. At this time, I don’t scrape the stripper, not yet. When the stripper has cause a good amount of bubbling I apply a second coat of stripper and leave it for another 10-15 minutes. This makes sure that all of the finish has separated from the surface. I use a cheap brush for this and throw it away when I am done.

This is a common table with no value outside of it's use as a table.

This is a common table with no value outside of it’s use as a table.

Another tip when applying stripper is to not do too big of an area at a time. Be patient and do small areas at a time. When removing the stripper you will be thankful that you don’t have to rush.

Removing The Stripper

When you are ready to remove the stripper, start by scraping off all of the stripper with your plastic scraper. You will find that many area will strip down to bare wood with just your plastic scraper. For areas that still have finish on them, pull out your green scrubbing pad and scrub the area thoroughly, this should remove any remaining finish. For any curved, grooved or carved areas this is where you will want to use your dense scrubbing brush (and make sure you have eye protection). Scrub these areas thoroughly and you should remove all stripper.

When you are done stripping double check everything to make sure all finish has been removed. If any finish remains, start another round of stripper.


Once all finish has been stripped you will need to clean off all residue from the stripper. Stripper contains wax and will not allow you to finish your furniture well. Use a hose and a scrub brush or even a power washer at this point to clean your furniture as well as you can. Make sure to wipe down the excess water and get the furniture to dry as quickly as possible so you do not have any issues with water damaging your furniture.


Refinishing Furniture – A Complete Do It Yourself Guide – Part 1

I am sure we have all thought about refinishing a piece of furniture around our house at some point or another. Maybe you even saw a neat piece at a garage sale or a thrift store and thought “I would love to refinish that but it would just take too much time”. Well, refinishing doesn’t have to take a ton of time and is something you can actually do in an easy weekend if you know a few tricks.

Disclaimer – What I am showing and describing in this article is not meant for antiques or furniture with significant value. The table done in this article was picked up for free from a family that was moving and did not want to bring the table with them.

The table I have here was picked up by a friend who installs cable. The homeowner wanted the table and chairs gone and said he could have it for free. If this was a true antique or family heirloom, I would approach it differently to keep the original finish in tact, but for what the new owner of the piece was looking for, our process was perfect.

Rather than give you a brief overview of the process, I am going to split this article up into 3-4 pieces and go as far in depth in each one as possible.

Step One: Asses The Piece

This is where you need to determine what exactly what type of piece you have. Does it have any value? Will this value be ruined if you refinish the piece? Is a restoration a better solution than a refinish? What will it be used for? What types of finish is currently on the piece and what types of stains and finishes will you be applying?

This is a common table with no value outside of it's use as a table.

This is a common table with no value outside of it’s use as a table.

Does It Have Any Value?

For this I keep on hand an American furniture encyclopedia. This allows me to look up the piece and determine if the piece has more value as an antique or a working piece of furniture. In reality most “antique” furniture is worth more as a working piece of furniture and very few pieces have significant value. Another common issue is that even fully restored, a piece may only be worth $300-$400 and it may not be worth your time or paying someone to do a full restoration.

For our table and chairs, I determined that the style is very common and would have more value if it was completely stripped, refinished and put to use as a nice looking and durable table and chairs.

If there was even a chance of this piece being a unique collectable piece of furniture, I would take it to a true furniture professional and get a real opinion of the piece.

Refinish or Restore

This is the next question you need to ask yourself. Refinishing a piece of furniture would involve stripping the old finish completely off, sanding any dings or scratches out (optional), re-staining the piece and applying a new finish. This is typically the best option only if the furniture has been thoroughly abused with deep scratches and the finish is pretty much ruined.

If the finish is in decent shape and the scratches are minimal, restoration could be a much cheaper and easier answer. A restoration may consist of fixing scratches with stain and apply a new finish to the piece. This can often bring a piece back to 80-90% of its original condition but only works if it is is decent shape to begin with.

What Type Of Finish Is Currently On The Piece

You need to know what type of finish is currently on the piece whether you are refinishing or restoring the piece. When you know what type of finish is currently on the piece, then you will know how to strip it or what type of finish you should use yourself.

Start with a couple drips of Denatured Alcohol. If the finish softens up and turns sticky, you are dealing with a shellac.

Next, try a few drips of Lacquer Thinner. If the finish softens up and turns sticky, you are dealing with a lacquer.

Last, try a few drips of Xylene, if the finish softens up and turns sticky, you are dealing with a water based finish

If you don’t any of these and plan on stripping the piece no matter what, you can skip this step and just start applying strippers. Some may work better than others due to the type of finish currently on the furniture though.

What Type Of Stain Will You Use

I will talk about each of these more later on but for now there are a few things to keep in mind.

Stains: There are two types of stains. The first is pigment based stain. This is what you would find in any hardware or paint store and is the most common type of stain because it is very easy to use. Pigment stains are easy to use and give a great looking color to woods. A downside is that pigment stains will show scratches, unevenness in the wood and make grain stand out.

Dye Stains are the second type of stains and also have pros and cons. The pros being that dye stains tend to stain wood more evenly and do not make grain and scratches stand out. The cons are that if you have never used a dye stain, they can be incredibly difficult to learn. You should definitely practice with a dye stain before applying it to any furniture.

Most people should use a pigment based stain and leave it at that. If you want to become an expert at staining and get the best possible results, then learning to use a dye stain is a must. Dye stains are typically not sold in hardware stores (or even paint stores), you will need to go to your local woodworking store to find quality dye stains.

Applying Dye Stains

Applying Dye Stains

What Type Of Finish Will You Use

You have lots of choices when deciding what type of finish to use. You can use a Shellac, Lacquer or Polyurethane for example. I will often tell people to go with whatever will be easiest for them, which is typically a brushed on water based polyurethane, just for ease of use. Poly is incredibly durable and looks nice along with it’s ease of use.

Shellacs and lacquers may be used if you want a true to the time finish, but are best suited for shop work and spray environments.


This wraps up part 1. Part 2 we will go over Stripping Your Furniture.




How To Refinish A Dresser

I was out bidding a kitchen cabinet refinishing project last week and on my way home from the bid I happened to drive by a garage sale and out of the corner of my eye I spotted a little dresser that intrigued me. I stopped my car and walked back a block to see what it was that I had noticed. It was a small birds eye laminated maple dresser.

As I looked at the dresser I noticed that the drawers and top were built from solid oak, everything was built with dovetail joints and other than some water damage the dresser was in decent enough shape. I couldn’t find any manufacturer markings and nothing about this said that it was anything other than a great looking dresser (nothing antique).I thought this would be a great project to photograph and make a nice video and we could use more storage in our bedroom.

Maplle Dresser Before Water Damage on Dresser Top

I ended up paying $60 for the dresser, which felt a touch high but not bad for such a nice piece. I purchased the maple dresser, brought it home and couldn’t wait to get started re-finishing it right away.

Refinishing A Dresser: Preparing The Work Space

Preparing My WorkspaceThe first thing I did was to prepare my work space. For me, this is one of the most important steps to having a successful project (I do the same thing when cooking). I find that if you don’t set things up and make sure you have everything you need, you are more likely to cut corners and allow quality to suffer later on. I must also note that since this was for my own enjoyment and I did not have a lot of money invested, I worked through this relatively quick and was not too worried about little things and didn’t want to invest to much time into a project that was only serving a practical storage purpose for me.

Refinishing A Dresser: Stripping The Finish Off The Dresser

Next I went on to stripping all of the old finish. I used Klean-Strip Premium Stripper from Home Depot for all of the stripping. I applied the stripped with a cheap disposable brush very thick and let it sit for about 20 minutes. Since the dresser is mostly flat, a plastic scraper worked very well for removing the stripper and finish. For the rounded corners and areas that a flat plastic knife would not do well in, I used a green scrubbing pad (I don’t know what the official name of these are, I will look it up now). For little nooks and crannies, I like to use a stiff, plastic bristled brush to get all of the finish and stripper our. Spending some extra time stripping is always time well spent and will save you at least twice the amount of time when sanding, plus it will save the wood from potential damage while sanding.

Stripping Finish off of a Maple Dresser Top Stripping A Maple Dresser

Refinishing A Dresser: Washing Off The Stripper

Washing Off StripperAn evil but necessary step when refinishing is washing the piece. You must remove all of the stripper (which typically has waxes in it) and get the piece clean for finishing. I try to do this step as quickly as possible and avoid letting any laminate or joints stay wet for more than a couple minute. Wiping the piece off when done to speed up drying is a good idea as well.

Refinishing A Dresser: Sanding

Dresser After SandingSanding is a step that you may want to avoid depending on the piece you are working on. For my garage sale find, I wanted it to look great and I was not worried that I would damage anything important. This is where I sanded out all of the deep scratches, water stains and any of the old finish that still remained. If you have a thinner laminate you will want to make sure to be very gentle on the sanding, if you are too aggressive you may sand through the laminate.

Refinishing A Dresser: Repairing Any Damage

After I was done with the sanding I did all the required repair work on this birds eye maple dresser. Luckily there was almost not repair work needed on this project. I had one small patch of laminate that needed to be repaired. To repair laminate, you need to cut the area out to give it clean, straight edges. Next glue in a piece of laminate that matches as close as possible. I did not purchase any birds eye laminate and just replaced it with a maple laminate that I stained to match. In all honesty, I should have gotten the birds eye laminate in hind sight.

Refinishing A Dresser: Spraying The First Coat

Before spraying this maple dresser I vacuumed and cleaned prior to spraying. I used Hirshfields One Hour Varnish for my clear coat. If you are in Minnesota, I cannot recommend a clear coat more highly than I recommend Hirshfields One Hour Varnish. It dries quickly, looks beautiful and is very easy to work with. I thinned the varnish out by about 10% with paint thinner and sprayed with a Capspray HVLP cup sprayer. One Hour Varnish also brushes very well if you do not have a sprayer to use.

Refinishing A Dresser: The Final Coat

After letting the first coat dry, I then sanded the first coat down and looked for any imperfections. I didn’t like the color of my laminate patch so I brushed on some dry stain to darken the patch and get a better blend. Other than that I saw no issues and was ready to proceed to the final coat.

The final coat was sprayed with a bit more care than the first coat as this coat needed to be perfect, lay perfectly flat and have absolutely no foreign particles in it (dust). My final coat turned out awesome, all that was left for this project was to let it dry and fill it up with some clothes.

My total time investment on this project was roughly 4 hours. There was about 30 minutes in the purchase, 1 hour into the stripping, 1 hour into the sanding, 1 hour in the repair and first coat and about 30 minutes into the final coat. My total financial investment was about $70. There was $60 into the dresser, a little bit of stripper and about half a quart of varnish.

If you have any questions about a project that you are working on, please feel free to email me at ryan at and I will do my best to help you.

If you have a refinishing project, including furniture or kitchen cabinets, give me a call at 763-286-1543 for a Free Quote or Contact Me Here.




Glazing A Chair – Video and How To

This last week my buddy Mark at HB Painting called me up with a few questions about glazing a chair he had just gotten in from a client. I have been friends with Mark for about three years now and we have helped each other out with many different projects.

Mark has a shop in St. Louis Park where he pre-finishes and re-finishes cabinets, outdoor furniture, random stuff for painters and more. Mark also does a lot of electrostatic painting (a metal painting application) as well. Mark hasn’t done much distressing or glazing though, which is why he gave me a call.

When Mark showed me the pictures of his project, I thought that looks to fun to pass up.

All of the upholstery had already been removed from the chair and Mark had prepped the springs as well as primed and sprayed the chair with one coat of oil based Satin Impervo from Benjamin Moore. When I got there he was 100% ready to start the glazing.

Mark had a sample piece from his designer client that they wanted the chair to resemble so we played around with a few different glazes, and a few different levels of dillution of the glaze before we felt we had the color just right. We chose to work with Van Dyke Brown which is an Alkyd glaze from Sherwin Williams. Just a note, for a project of this size 2 ounces is literally enough. A gallon of glaze lasts a LONG time!

The next step we had to figure out was what technique was going to best match what his client was looking for. After studying his piece for a while we decided that simple is best and went with a very easy wipe off technique.

What We Did:

  • First we decided on a flow pattern for the chair. If you do different parts of the chair in the wrong order, your finish will suffer and you will get frustrated.
  • We generously applied the glaze to one area at a time and allowed roughly 1 minute for the glaze to sit.
  • Glaze was then wiped off until and worked into the piece until the glaze looked smooth and natural in the finish. If there are drag marks or bunches of glaze, it often times looks like it was put there on purpose. Even though it was, our goal is to make this glaze look as natural as possible.
  • After the glazing was completed I added some cross thatching to the piece to look like scratch marks that had caught dirt over the years.
  • Last was a few specks of glaze to match the sample (I don’t like speckling!).

That was really all there was to it. This piece was relatively simple, yet still a lot of fun. The only step left was for Mark to shoot the chair with a coat of One Hour Varnish from Hirshfields (Best Varnish on the Planet!).

Below is a Gallery of Photos I Took While Working With Mark: