Popular New Paint Colors for 2014

Every year, paint companies release their predictions for the upcoming year and what will be the popular new paint colors among customers for the new year. They typically base these predictions on the paint colors that are selling best. This information is extremely accurate because paint companies are able to keep record of various shades that are being purchased by customers. All of this information is collected and when reviewed they can precisely predict the most popular paint colors that are on the horizon. This is exciting in many ways. Especially, for homeowners  to make the best decision to keep their homes and spaces up to date.

Gray Paint Chip Palette

The other great thing about paint forecasts is the can come as a range of colors that compliment eachother nicely. This allowing the consumer to have options within a certain shade of paint color. This also allows the colors of a home to flow well together, creating a very well thought out painting project within a home. The amazing color palettes will help a consumer to make a decision about colors that transition seamlessly throughout the home.

So let’s get to it! What are the popular new paint colors for 2014? Here they are from both Sherwin-Williams and Benjamin Moore!

Sherwin Williams

The first color palette that will be most popular in 2014 is a Gray Scale including colors such as: Classic French Gray (SW 0077), Tricorn Black (SW 6258), Extra White (SW 7006), Gauntlet Gray (SW 7019), Agreeable Gray (SW 7029), Crushed Ice (7647), Earl Gray (SW 7660), and Peppercorn (SW 7674). The second color palette from Sherwin Williams is named “Curiosity” and includes various shades that leave ones mind to fascination and want. These shades include Blue Peacock (SW 0064); Anew Gray (7030); Show Stopper (SW 7588), a joyous shade of red; and Quixotic Plum (SW 6265).

Benjamin Moore

The first palette from Benjamin Moore is referred to as a “new” neutral palette. From their findings they found that more neutral shades will be popular in the home. Benjamin Moore discovered there will be a shift to softened pastels in greens, lavenders, pinks, and blues versus Sherwin-Williams’ Gray Scale. Some of their recommended colors are Van Deusen Blue (HC-156), which has a strong shade of blue; Flint (AF-560), this contributes understated sophistication; and Breath of Fresh Air (806), a pale sky blue. Moore also suggests a color palette that includes the three colors Lavender Mist (2070-60), aforementioned Flint, and Peach Parfait (2175-70).

These color palettes that both Sherwin-Williams and Benjamin Moore have predicted, are simply suggestions to help modernize and update homes. Of course, it really comes down to personal preference. But for some, suggestions are always nice.

Let our paint professionals help you to make a decision that you won’t regret. Call us today!


5 Colorful Rooms To Inspire Your Interior Painting Project

We all need it sometimes. Sometimes you find yourself absolutely stumped and cannot find that right color for your interior painting project. Sadly, those 1 inch paint swatches don’t quite cut it when picking a color for your interior. That’s why we try to include as many photos as possible on our site. We know there are really two main reasons people visit our website. #1 to find a great minneapolis painter and #2, to find inspiration and look at photos. Here are a few great photos to help get your inspired and find the right color for your project:

Green Living Room Grey Living Room Purple Room Blue Living Room Awesome Girls Room


Decorating With Red

Red is an amazing color that is unlike any other. Red grabs a persons attention, like a stop sign, and demands that they take notice. Red can heat up a room, add a sense of modernism, add a playful side to a room and even make a room feel sexy. No other color has such a wide array of emotions that it can produce quite like red.

Red Accents

Red is a great color to accent with since it draws immediate attention. If you have a unique wall space that you want to draw attention to, accenting it with red will draw people’s eyes the minute they walk into the room. A red couch, pillows, artwork or coffee table will do the same.

Don’t Go Overboard With Red

One problem many homeowners make with red is going overboard with the color. This was a fad from about 2000-2005 when many people were painting entire rooms with red such as dining rooms and kitchens. This fad died as quickly as it came though.

Red is best used as an accent in a room. Red grabs our attention more than any other color, so when a whole room is painted red, you don’t know where to put your attention and the room can seem overwhelming. Keep red to accent walls, furniture and art to use it to it’s fullest potential.

Painting red on your exterior is different though. Red can often times be used as a main exterior color without having this same overwhelming affect. The reason for this is that when you are outdoors, the red on your home is not the only thing in ones vision. You can also see the grass, other homes, the sky and trees. This makes your home an accent to it’s surroundings rather than a complete canvas like when used indoors.

The Psychology Behind Red

Red is a truly amazing color. No other color can relay as many emotions and feelings as red can. In certain color schemes soft reds can be cheery and happy while in others it can be hot and intense. When used in bold accents, red is a color that shows a quality of leadership and forward thinking.

What red is most desired for is that it is the color of sexuality. When bold reds are used as accents in bedrooms, dining rooms and even kitchens, they can add a sexiness to a room by themselves that almost nothing else can replicate.

Examples of Red Paint, Furniture and Accents



A Simple Painting Lesson I Learned 7 Years Ago

I have to start this post with one of my favorite stories about a client I painted for. This happened about 7 years ago and while at the time was very frustrating, it really helped me understand the minds of my clients.

I was painting the interior in one of the North suburbs of Minneapolis, it was an easy and straight forward job. My client simply wanted new paint on their walls. The current color was a dark green and my client really loved the color gold. So I was hired to paint their living room, entry, kitchen, stairwell and upper hallways all gold.

The job took 2 or 3 days (I don’t remember exactly) and everything went just fine. There were no issues, the client and I got along just great, I finished the job, got paid and went on my merry way.

The next day I got a call from a very upset client, they said that I had gotten paint all over their trim and all over their ceiling. They said I was really sloppy with my painting and were extremely frustrated. I couldn’t hardly believe that I had done what they said, I am a very good painter, I had looked over my work and made sure everything went great. Did I work too quickly, was I zoning out, what was the issue?! Shocked, I jumped in my car and headed straight up to their house.

When I got into the house the client took me straight to their stairwell and pointed out spots of green paint on the trim (even on the sides of the trim) and green spots on the ceiling. I immediately began smiling, which they did not like. If you were paying attention above, remember I said I painted GOLD. Their old color was GREEN, they had painted the green themselves. After a bit of explaining we both had a good chuckle and to this day this is a story I enjoy telling.

What I learned from this experience has been a very important lesson about construction and painting in general. Homeowners typically do not inspect the little things on their home (such as paint on ceiling) when they either buy a house or do work themselves, but they inspect it to a T after hiring a contractor. This is 100% what they should do as well. What I took away from this is that I should also inspect their home to a T before I start a project.

This helps me to find issues, known or unknown to the homeowner, point out things that we could fix if they want us to or even just to point out issues so that I don’t take credit for them when finished. This has made my contracting life much easier through the years.


Guide To Painting a Room

Painting-CollageIf you’re dedicated to DIY and want to paint a room yourself, don’t just grab a brush and a tin of paint, and hope for the best. You’ll regret it. Follow this guide and you’ll save yourself hours of frustration.

Good preparation leads to a good finish

Preparing well will not guarantee a perfect finish, but you won’t get a perfect finish without it. Put time and thought into your preparation and you’ll not only avoid time-wasting mistakes, you’ll also avert longer-term problems such as flaking paint.

Most people find preparing to paint a room as boring as – well, watching paint dry, but it’s more than worth the trouble. Follow these steps:

1. Get good-quality paint. It will look better and last longer. Make sure you choose the right paint for the purpose. For example, use a semi-gloss or satin finish in a kid’s room, not a flat paint – or else you’ll have lots more work to do cleaning handprints, footprints, crayon marks, etc. And note that a shiny paint will show up any imperfections on a wall.

Also, get enough paint or you will run out when you’re up the ladder applying a master stroke to the ceiling.

2. Get good-quality brushes (unless you like bristles in your paint) and rollers.

3. Dress suitably. Don’t put on your evening dress; wear old clothes and shoes – and you may be glad you covered your hair.

4. Empty the room of furniture and anything that will get in your way. (If there’s heavy furniture, gather it in the middle of the room.)

It’s best to remove any vents, the handles and knobs from doors and windows, and – after you’ve turned off the power – electrical covers (keep the screws together!). Use tape to cover the wires in the outlet boxes. Take down the draperies and drapery fixtures.

Loosen the light fixtures, let them hang, and use plastic bags to wrap them.

Also remove any hooks or nails.

5. Repair all surface defects on the surfaces to be painted. Fill any holes with spackling paste. When it’s dry, sand the area smooth.

6. Sand glossy surfaces so that the paint will adhere. Or use a commercial deglosser or trisodium phosphate (TSP), which you can buy in a paint or hardware store. You can degloss wood in the same way, or sand it with medium or fine sandpaper.

7. Clean the room and all surfaces. Vacuum the room and then wash the surfaces with warm water and a detergent or wall-cleaning soap. To remove grease and grime, use TSP (trisodium phosphate) or a phosphate-free substitute. Then wash the surface and let it dry.

8. Cover the floor and furniture that remains, with plastic sheeting and canvas dropcloths (or old bedsheets).

9. Mask areas that will not be painted. Apply tape as necessary around doors, windows and moldings, using painter’s tape.

It’s best to use blue tape or another low-stick tape. Apply it in short lengths (two feet long at most). Press it firmly on to the area and make sure there are no folds or bubbles where paint might seep in.

Remove the tape before the paint dries (check the information on the paint tin to see how long this will take) or else you may also accidentally pull paint up from the surface. Pull off the tape slowly and steadily at a 90-degree angle to the surface so that the tape will ‘cut’ the paint cleanly.

Paint a room in the right sequence

1. Start with the ceiling so paint splashes don’t end up misdecorating an already painted area below.?Don’t worry about cutting in (that is, painting where two edges or colors meet) the ceiling edges to perfection, as you will be cutting in the walls later on. If you have a cornice in a different color, paint it next.

There is disagreement about the next step. Should you paint the woodwork before or after the walls?

‘Woodwork first’ argument: Any spatters on the wall don’t matter much since the wall will be painted later. 

‘Wall first’ argument: Rollers give off a fine spray of paint no matter how careful you are. Some of it is likely to find the woodwork.

We advise to paint the walls first, since it’s easier to fix the odd spatter than widely spread spray.

2. Now paint the walls. You can paint in sections from top to bottom or side to side as you wish. Cut in neatly at the ceiling or cornice edges.

Paint the whole wall before taking a break or the painted parts will lose their wet edges. Then scan the wall, and paint any missed areas and fix any smears.

3. Next, do the trims and the woodwork. Cut in carefully to the walls. Lightly sand and dust down between coats.

4. Paint the skirting boards.

How to use a brush

It’s worth learning how to use a brush properly – to ensure a good finish and to avoid aches in your muscles.

Hold a trim or sash brush the same way you’d grasp a pencil and you’ll be able to manipulate it with great control when you’re doing fine paintwork. Use your whole hand to grasp the beaver-tail handle on a large brush.

How much paint should you load on the brush? The maximum amount, but not so much that the paint will end up dripping uncontrollably. Experiment as you hold the brush over the paint tin and you’ll quickly measure the ideal amount.

On large surfaces, apply the paint in sections of two or three square feet.

It’s worth learning good painting techniques – but that’s a subject in itself.

How to use a roller

It’s easier to use a roller than a brush. To paint ceilings, use a roller with an extension handle so you can do the job from the floor and not have to move a stepladder around.

Fill the well of the pan about half full, dip the roller into the middle of the well, then raise it and roll it down the slope of the pan – but stop before the well. If you do this three times, the paint will work well into the roller.

Next, again dip the roller into the well and roll it on the slope until it is covered with paint.

You’ll know quickly if you’re applying too much paint – the roller will drip as you lift it away from the roller.

When painting, keep the roller on the surface all the time as you roll it in a zigzag direction and then apply horizontal and vertical strokes to fill in the uncovered areas. It’s best to paint in sections of two or three square feet.

On a vertical surface, start by rolling upwards. If you start with a downward roll, the paint may gather in a puddle and run down the wall.

When you’re lifting the roller, do it slowly so it doesn’t leave a mark behind.

Since rollers can’t go tight to edges, you need to use a brush along the ceiling, and in corners and moldings. To avoid contrasting brush and roller marks, cover the brush marks as much as you can with the roller – but don’t load it with paint when doing this.

Avoid creating lines, ridges and lap-marks by maintaining a wet edge all the time. You may have to work fast so that you’re always applying new paint on to paint that’s still wet, but you’ll get a good finish.

Most DIY beginners spend too long applying the paint. Do this rapidly, then spread and smooth it quickly.

Keep a wet rag handy and use it to pick lumps off the wall as they arise.

Note that, for very large areas, you can use an airless sprayer. If you do, make sure to follow the instructions carefully.

Happy painting!


Painting With Grey

It may not be the first color that springs to mind when designing the interior of your home, but grey offers irresistible versatility and a modern alternative to the cream and beige palette.  Grey is a sophisticated neutral that can create either a contemporary or classic feel according to the treatment of each room.


The secret to using grey successfully is choosing exactly the right hue.  Grey tones range from warm to cool and include undertones of yellow, blue, green, pink or purple.  Choose from cool off-white tints through to deep earthy clay shades.


The light in a room will help you determine which shade of grey to use.  For a north-facing room use a grey with yellow or cream tints to reflect light.  In an east-facing room a pale grey with blue or green undertones works well with the blue quality of the light.  West-facing rooms receive warm light in the afternoon and evening so try a grey with a pink or red base.  All colors look good in the bright light of a south-facing room so you can afford to be more daring here.  Both warm and cool greys will work well.


There is a shade or tint of grey to suit every room.  Crisp greys work well with reflective surfaces like kitchen worktops and stainless steel sinks.  For a warmer feel, use yellow tones.

A bathroom can be given a coastal feel with bleached white-greys and sea-greens.  Or perhaps a more masculine look using stone grey paired with rich brown.

Modern luxury elegant bedroom interior, chandelier front

For a luxurious bedroom use grey with crimson or magenta.  An airier atmosphere can be created using light grey with a cool blue, while powdery grey teamed with chalky pinks or purples creates a romantic, vintage feel.

In a living room cool greys create a contemporary space, while warm greys paired with creams create an effortless classic elegance.  Blue or white grey can lend crispness to a room, while stone grey can be used to create a natural look, mimicking the muted tones of nature.

Accessorize grey with vivid color, texture or bold pattern.  Grey accessorized with royal purple, turquoise or emerald can look fabulous in a living room.  Add a striking rug or bright cushions and throws in jewel colors for an opulent effect.  Or try a feature wall in brilliant pink or hot orange to create drama.